If you’ve been to our house, you know that we have a World Map with pins all over it marking places we’ve been and places we want to go. I’m not sure which had the pin first, Machu Picchu or Patagonia, but both have been long standing members on my life-list of places to visit in South America. Backpacker Magazine had an article about the Inca Trail that reaffirms that while it’s certainly not off the beaten track (500 hikers, porters and guides begin it daily under a strict permit system) it’s still really special.
Our Groups Sets Out
Lovely Views all Around
We had to make reservations back in the spring, as permits for the high season (dry & clear season = now) typically sell out 4-6 months in advance. This was actually the only dates of our trip that we had to work around; there are absolutely no changes after the bookings are made. After doing a lot of research, I decided on Wayki Trek’s Classic Inca Trail because it had great reviews from other travelers on Lonely Planet’s Thorntree, and because they are under indigenous management. Most of the porters are also farmers, and work on the trail as a way to supplement their income, or when they have a break from farming. You can help local people from their village through organizations like KIVA, a microfinance corporation, or through Wayki Trek, which supports many community projects.
The Porters with a Lunch Break
The hike itself was really easy for backpackers. You only had to carry your personal equipment; porters carried the camp equipment and food. Each day wake-up coca tea was served at your tent, and then we had about a half-hour to pack. Breakfast was next, and included great pancakes, French Toast, omelets, toast, porridge, and hot chocolate. Then it was time to hike for a few hours (and eat the packed snack of fruit and chocolate), and then lunch break. Lunch was a full hot meal, with things like mashed potatoes, quinoa or rice with vegetables, fritters, chopped vegetables, and pasta or meat. Usually a short siesta followed, and then it was a few more hours of hiking. By the time we got to the camping area, the porters had been there for seemingly hours awaiting us, with camp set up and wash basins for us to freshen up with. The cook had extra responsibilities once camp was set up. First he prepared an elaborate tea, which included popcorn, crackers, cookies (biscuits), and other delicacies like banana wontons. Then an hour or two later it was dinner time, and we had more delicious food, similar to the lunch offerings but with dessert too. If it seems like we had an easy life with a lot of eating, that’s not far off!
The Dining Tent
Lovely Scenery near Abra de Huarmihuañusca (Dead Woman's Pass)
Our porters ranged in age from 22 to 64, and it was amazing to watch them on the trail. They were usually running; and this under a 25 kg (55 lbs) load! Their loads are heavily regulated, and each day they must pass a weigh station to ensure that they are not carrying more than 25 kg. Prior to 2001 the trail was not regulated, and porters were carrying crippling loads upwards of 100 lbs. in some cases. A testament to their fitness is the fact that a local porter owns the speed record–the same 27.5 mile trail with elevations between about 8,500 ft and 14,000 ft. that we spent 4 days and 3 nights on he covered in 3 hours and 47 minutes! Amazing.
Good Morning Light Over Pacamayo Camp
The first day was pretty easy; mostly “Inca Flat”, which means as flat as mountain trails are. No passes. The second day we went over the highest pass, and then a steep descent into camp. Even for being known as the “hardest” day, it wasn’t bad at all. The third day was the most interesting day I thought, for we were now walking on the actual stones the Quechua people had laid, and passed by four different ruins along the trail. Three of the eight people in our group (including Garret) were sick this day, and unfortunately we now know it was Giardia and/or Salmonella, as Garret was tested yesterday with lingering symptoms and is now on medication for both. One of the problems with a heavily used trail is contamination of the water supply, and the Inca Trail is definitely suffering from its own success at this point. The last day was a short stroll into the Sungate at Machu Picchu, and several hours touring these most famous ruins.
The Second Ruins of the Day
Fancy Inca Gardens
They really are incredible. I don’t think people today would ever work as hard as people did back when Machu Picchu was built. Massive stones were quarried and carried into place, and painstakingly polished until they had an absolute perfect fit. The most important buildings have no mortar at all, and not even a needle could be fit between the rocks. But more impressive to me than the structures themselves is the setting; it is just an incredible location for a city; whatever the reason for its building. The river below, mountains on all sides; it is spectacular.
Machu Picchu Unveiled
The Sun Temple
Urban Sprawl of Machu Picchu
Mama Llama Checks out the Tourists
Christmas Card 2009 (Consider Yourselves Mailed!)
A very long train ride back to Cusco finished our Inca Trail experience, where we’ve been recuperating for several days now. I think we’re finally on the mend now (with the help of some strong medicine), and the nice beds, great shower, and good food that is available in Cusco are helping. In a couple days, we’ll head out on another trek, this time to Choquequirao. We won’t have the luxury of porters and wake up tea, but we’ll definitely have solitude. It’s going to be a great hike!
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