From the monthly archives:

December 2009

A Vacation from Traveling

by Deeanne on December 22, 2009

Most people that I talk to, particularly from home, are jealous of our traveling.  They couldn’t imagine being away from home for that long, or that they could ever find a way to swing traveling for more than say 2-3 weeks with their current jobs.  People envy the life we’re leading, and I think they imagine that it is like a permanent vacation.  But there is a difference between vacationing and traveling, as anyone who has ever “backpacked” in places like Europe, South-East Asia or South America will agree.

Vacationing in my mind means fancy hotels, fantastic restaurants, and possibly expensive activities.  It means not worrying about the diet (because you’re only gone a couple of weeks), and eating dessert every night.  It means worrying less about the finances; because you’ve budgeted for the splurge, and you want to enjoy your couple of weeks.  It means airplanes, rental cars, and souvenirs.  The only things you spend time reading are the novels you packed for the vacation, and every spare minute is consumed with “relaxing”.

Traveling, on the other hand, is a much longer time frame.  For us it has meant seven months; and for many other travelers it is much longer.  It means staying at hostels, where even the good ones lack most amenities that rooms have in the USA (like a private bathroom, TV, and towels).  Generally the walls are thin, and you hear a bit of noise always; so you must become quite good friends with your ear plugs in order to learn to sleep.

Traveling means making your budget stretch quite a long way, so eating out is regarded in the same way as it would be back home—probably less than once a week.  All other meals are cooked in the hostel after going grocery shopping, and the only difference between meals at home and the hostel is that at home you have all the spices and foods you’re used to preparing; in the hostel you’re limited to what’s available in the country you’re in.

And for transportation, traveling means going in the cheapest way possible (after walking), and this is generally bus after bus after bus; at least here in South America.  Well, biking would be even cheaper, but those of you who know me know that I have a hate-hate relationship with them; at least if cars are also in the picture.  So for me, biking was out of the question.

Time spent traveling is split between seeing tourist attractions, communicating with friends and family at home, perhaps working a bit on the internet, and planning the next portion of travel.  In addition to reading wonderful books, travelers spend countless hours with their Lonely Planet or internet websites, booking hostels in advance (if it is the high season), and looking for the best way to travel and see the area that they will be in next.  Sometimes this can feel tiring.

But there are advantages to traveling too.  Whereas vacationers have little time and lots of money, travelers have lots of time and little money. This makes us travel slowly by bus, instead of just arriving in the next city by airplane.  We see the little villages and scenery between tourist attractions, and this helps you to understand an area, and be better oriented.  When I see a map of South America, I actually know what many areas look like, and will take with me this geographic understanding that otherwise wouldn’t have been possible without countless hours spent passing through the area on bus.

But I must confess that I am very much looking forward to a vacation from our traveling, which we will be on for a week at Christmas.  Although it will take 36 hours with all four flight connections to arrive at our vacation, we will be spending 8 days with Garret’s family in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.  We’re so looking forward to hanging out in the beach house with family, and eating lots and lots of Mexican food (there really should be more taquerias worldwide).  We will arrive back to Argentina via Buenos Aires in time for New Years, and then spend our last four weeks traveling in Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Iguazu Falls, and Uruguay.

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Top 10 Things I Lost in South America

by Deeanne on December 19, 2009

Top 10 Things I’ve Lost Traveling South America
I’m usually pretty careful with my belongings, and don’t forget and lose things.  Garret is really good when checking out of hostels; he always does the “once over” looking behind us, lifting the covers, peeking under the bed, and looking in the closet and drawers for hidden or forgotten items.  We’re careful when we leave busses and airplanes, looking in the seat pocket, under the chairs, and in the overhead storage.  But I guess it was inevitable that we would lose certain possessions while traveling.  While we’ve lost a few more than 10 items, here’s my roughly chronological list of the first important 10 items we’ve lost.
1. Brown hat.  One of the few items that I actually purchased especially for the trip, a cute floppy brown sun hat from REI disappeared at the language school in Quito.  I set it down in the kitchen and 5 min later when I went to retrieve it, it was permanently missing.  I hope you are enjoying it, whoever you are.
2. Eye mask with extra earplugs.  On my first long bus ride in Ecuador, I managed to forget my lovely black eye mask with Velcro earplug storage.  This has sense led to us checking the seat pockets much more thoroughly before disembarking.  Huge bummer, because I am quite sensitive to light, and generally wake with first light (which in Southern Patagonian summer is at roughly 4 am).  I have sense recommissioned my black tank top to serve as an eye cover.
3. Spanish notecards.  ALL of the notecards that I painstakingly made from SIX weeks of private language study, which were organized into sets of “verbs”, “phrases”, and “vocabulary” and stored in a giant Ziplock bag were somehow forgotten on the airplane to the Galapagos Islands in August.  Huge bummer; I could have been studying them all this time… I was sick about this for a few days when I realized I’d lost them.
4. One white sock.  Laundromat in Cusco lost a white sock.  I knew it immediately, and asked the hostel desk to contact them, but it was never found.  Wouldn’t be a big deal except that I had only packed 2 pairs of casual socks.
5. Yellow shirt.  Another Laundromat in Peru failed to return a yellow shirt with fun sparklies on it.  I didn’t realize it for a week or more when I went to wear something else, so it was too late to ask about it.  Hmmm… already slim wardrobe options reduced even further.
6. Pair of Smartwools and bag of freshly washed fruit.  This was just utter stupidity.  On the way to our trailhead in Ausangate, Peru, Garret and I placed a grocery bag containing all the delicate fruits that we planned on putting in the top of our backpacks for our five day hike, as well as eat the next morning before we started hiking.  Also inside, was one of two pairs of hiking socks I had, still drying from being hand washed in the morning.  When our stop came up quickly, we hopped off the bus with only our big backpacks; sans fruit.  Oh how we lamented our rush later!
7. One of Garret’s earplugs.  For sure the cheapest item on the list, I wouldn’t even mention it except for the fact that it took several weeks to find a replacement pair.  In the meantime, Garret had just one earplug, and would sleep on his side, alternating which ear he put the plug in.  This worked OK, except when we were in hostels with lots of street noise like the first one in Rurrenabaque and he didn’t really sleep…
8. USB thumbdrive.  We still don’t know where this went.  It was even on a lanyard and just completely disappeared.  Could have been quite handy on any number of occasions.
9. Bra.  I brought two with me to South America; one nice new Victoria’s Secret $45 bra, and a ratty one.  You can probably guess which one disappeared in a hostel somewhere in El Calafate  and which one I’m stuck wearing for two months straight.
10. Grocery bag with peanut butter.  This one hurts the most, because it was the most recent.  After cooking veggie burgers for dinner, we cleaned up our dishes and went to our room, somehow forgetting our green grocery bag of non-perishables.  Although we remembered it in the morning, someone in the very large Freestyle hostel we were staying at saw fit to take the entire bag with powdered milk, tea, sugar, rice, crackers, cookies, and peanut butter.  I wouldn’t care as much except that peanut butter isn’t available in the grocery stores I’ve been at so far in Argentina, and I had just purchased this one two days before in Chile, so it was irreplaceable.  Whoever you are, I hope you are enjoying my peanut butter.

I’m usually pretty careful with my belongings, and don’t forget and lose things.  Garret is really good when checking out of hostels; he always does the “once over” looking behind us, lifting the covers, peeking under the bed, and looking in the closet and drawers for hidden or forgotten items.  We’re careful when we leave busses and airplanes, looking in the seat pocket, under the chairs, and in the overhead storage.  But I guess it was inevitable that we would lose certain possessions while traveling.  While we’ve lost a few more than 10 items, here’s my roughly chronological list of the 10 most missed items we’ve lost.

1. Brown hat.  One of the few items that I actually purchased especially for the trip, a cute floppy brown sun hat from REI disappeared at the language school in Quito.  I set it down in the kitchen and 5 min later when I went to retrieve it, it was permanently missing.  I hope you are enjoying it, whoever you are.

2. Eye mask with extra earplugs.  On my first long bus ride in Ecuador, I managed to forget my lovely black eye mask with Velcro earplug storage.  This has sense led to us checking the seat pockets much more thoroughly before disembarking.  Huge bummer, because I am quite sensitive to light, and generally wake with first light (which in Southern Patagonian summer is at roughly 4 am).  I have sense recommissioned my black tank top to serve as an eye cover.

3. Spanish notecards.  ALL of the notecards that I painstakingly made from SIX weeks of private language study, which were organized into sets of “verbs”, “phrases”, and “vocabulary” and stored in a giant Ziplock bag were somehow forgotten on the airplane to the Galapagos Islands in August.  Huge bummer; I could have been studying them all this time… I was sick about this for a few days when I realized I’d lost them.

4. One white sock.  Laundromat in Cusco lost a white sock.  I knew it immediately, and asked the hostel desk to contact them, but it was never found.  Wouldn’t be a big deal except that I had only packed 2 pairs of casual socks.

5. Yellow shirt.  Another Laundromat in Peru failed to return a yellow shirt with fun sparklies on it.  I didn’t realize it for a week or more when I went to wear something else, so it was too late to ask about it.  Hmmm… already slim wardrobe options reduced even further.

6. Pair of Smartwools and bag of freshly washed fruit.  This was just utter stupidity.  On the way to our trailhead in Ausangate, Peru, Garret and I placed a grocery bag containing all the delicate fruits that we planned on putting in the top of our backpacks for our five day hike, as well as eat the next morning before we started hiking.  Also inside, was one of two pairs of hiking socks I had, still drying from being hand washed in the morning.  When our stop came up quickly, we hopped off the bus with only our big backpacks; sans fruit.  Oh how we lamented our rush later!

7. One of Garret’s earplugs.  By far the cheapest item on the list, I wouldn’t even mention it except for the fact that it took several weeks to find a replacement pair.  In the meantime, Garret had just one earplug, and would sleep on his side, alternating which ear he put the plug in.  This worked OK, except when we were in hostels with lots of street noise like the first one in Rurrenabaque and he didn’t really sleep…

8. USB thumbdrive.  We still don’t know where this went.  It was even on a lanyard and just completely disappeared.  Could have been quite handy on any number of occasions.

9. Bra.  I brought two with me to South America; one nice new Victoria’s Secret $45 bra, and a ratty one.  You can probably guess which one disappeared in a hostel somewhere in El Calafate  and which one I’m stuck wearing for two months straight.

10. Grocery bag with peanut butter.  This one hurts the most, because it was the most recent.  After cooking veggie burgers for dinner, we cleaned up our dishes and went to our room, somehow forgetting our green grocery bag of non-perishables.  Although we remembered it in the morning, someone in the very large Freestyle hostel we were staying at saw fit to take the entire bag with powdered milk, tea, sugar, rice, crackers, cookies, and peanut butter.  I wouldn’t care as much except that peanut butter isn’t available in the grocery stores I’ve been at so far in Argentina, and I had just purchased this one two days before in Chile, so it was irreplaceable.  Whoever you are, I hope you are enjoying my peanut butter.

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Trekking in Tierra del Fuego

by Deeanne on December 15, 2009

After arriving back in Ushuaia, we had a fairly “typical” week.  Garret and I worked in the office for two days, and after such back-breaking work as sitting at a desk for two days for nearly 7 hours each day, we had to have a weekend get-away!  Where else to go but to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, a mear 10 miles West of Ushuaia.
We left work Friday afternoon and went to the grocery store.  Since we weren’t going to be walking too far, we bought fresh pasta (everywhere in Argentina) and ravioli, sauce, fruits and vegetables, bread, and cereal for our food.  We took a taxi Saturday morning to the park, which set us back only 28 AR to the entrance gate (travelers take note—the bus company charges 40 AR each person for a one-way ticket; the taxi is by far the better alternative).
Since the weather was nice, we sat and read, instead of hiking.  There were horses grazing nearby, and a gurgling creek for company.  Since the park is so accessible, many families were out together grilling over the parillas and playing pick-up futbol games.  It reminded me of Mission Bay in San Diego; where the seemingly endless waterways intrude upon the land and hide exceptional picnic areas and places to get lost.  After a few hours of reading, we began the hike to Ensenada Camp along the Pampa Alta trail.
The hike was through beech forest, and also a bit of bog.  We were also able to see Beaver dams, as this introduced species has unfortunately been quite industrious since their unfortunate introduction some 50 years ago.  The problem is there are no natural predators of beavers in Tierra del Fuego; so they, along with the North American rabbit, have really proliferated in the area.  There are plans to eradicate the beaver from the island completely, but until then, they are somewhat of a tourist attraction.  Who knew a rodent could be so cute?
The next day, we hiked the Ensenada trail along the coast of the Beagle Channel for about 7 miles, breathing in the delicious salty air that the coast brings.  It felt a little funny that we were on the ocean, because there are still snow-clad mountains behind the water.  These are close islands that belong to Chilean Tierra del Fuego actually.
As far as backpacking goes, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego is pretty poor.  None of the trails is very long, and they are all very easily hiked in a couple of hours.  However, the campgrounds inside are all free (except the one at Lago Roco), and it made for leisurely hiking and lots of time for reading and relaxing in the sunshine.  Come to think of it, I think maybe the best part about the park is that there isn’t that much to do, so sitting and enjoying the scenery becomes a priority.
When it was time to come back to work for the week in Ushuaia, a nice German lady gave us a ride in her camper.

After arriving back in Ushuaia, we had a fairly “typical” week.  Garret and I worked in the office for two days, and after such back-breaking work as sitting at a desk for two days for nearly 7 hours each day, we had to have a weekend get-away!  Where else to go but to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, a mear 10 miles West of Ushuaia.

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

Horses Graze the Day Away in the Park

Horses Graze the Day Away in the Park

We left work Friday afternoon and went to the grocery store.  Since we weren’t going to be walking too far, we bought fresh pasta (readily available everywhere in Argentina) and ravioli, sauce, fruits and vegetables, bread, and cereal for our food.  We took a taxi Saturday morning to the park, which set us back only 28 AR to the entrance gate (travelers take note—the bus company charges 40 AR each person for a one-way ticket; the taxi is by far the better alternative).

More Horses near Bahia Ensenada

More Horses near Bahia Ensenada

Young Foal and Mare

Young Foal and Mare

While the weather was nice, we sat and read, instead of hiking.  There were horses grazing nearby, and a gurgling creek for company.  Since the park is so accessible, many families were out together grilling over the parillas and playing pick-up futbol games.  It reminded me of Mission Bay in San Diego; where the seemingly endless waterways intrude upon the land and hide exceptional picnic areas and places to get lost.  After a few hours of reading, we began the hike to Ensenada Camp along the Pampa Alta trail.

Reading in the Sunshiny Day

Reading in the Sunshiny Day

Gurgling Brook

Gurgling Brook

The hike was through beech forest, and also a bit of bog.  We were also able to see Beaver dams, as this introduced species has regrettably been quite industrious since their unfortunate introduction some 50 years ago.  The problem is there are no natural predators of beavers in Tierra del Fuego; so they, along with the North American rabbit, have really proliferated in the area.  There are plans to eradicate the beaver from the island completely, but until then, they are somewhat of a tourist attraction.  Who knew that a cute rodent could be so troublesome?

Hiking the Pampa Alta Trail

Hiking the Pampa Alta Trail

Lots of Water and Moisture are Common in Tierra del Fuego

Lots of Water and Moisture are Common in Tierra del Fuego

An Abandoned Dam Made by Introduced Beavers

An Abandoned Dam Made by Introduced Beavers

The next day, we hiked the Ensenada trail along the coast of the Beagle Channel for about 7 miles, breathing in the delicious salty air that the coast brings.  It felt a little funny that we were on the ocean, because there are still snow-clad mountains behind the water.  These are close islands that belong to Chilean Tierra del Fuego actually.

The Ocean, with Chilean Islands in the Background

The Ocean, with Chilean Islands in the Background

Looks Like a Lake, but Smells Like the Ocean

Looks Like a Lake, but Smells Like the Ocean

Dawdling on the Trail

Dawdling on the Trail

As far as backpacking goes, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego is pretty poor.  None of the trails is very long, and they are all very easily hiked in a couple of hours.  However, the campgrounds inside are all free (except the one at Lago Roco), and it made for leisurely hiking and lots of time for reading and relaxing in the sunshine.  Come to think of it, I think maybe the best part about the park is that there isn’t that much to do, so sitting and enjoying the scenery becomes a priority.

Bog in the Park (at least we didnt have to walk through it!)

Bog in the Park (at least we didn't have to walk through it!)

Camp, Night #2

Camp, Night #2

Is it Sunset Yet, We Ask After 10 pm

Is it Sunset Yet, We Ask After 10 pm

When it was time to come back to work for the week in Ushuaia, a nice German lady gave us a ride in her camper back to Ushuaia.

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The Back Side of Torres del Paine

by DeeanneDecember 10, 2009

After our exhausting day on the pass and in the vertical bog, the hike from Guardas area to Dickson Lake was a dream. The trail leading through the forest was actually pleasant and nearly flat not to mention dry! Garret enjoyed the forest most of all, more of a morning stroll than hike; [...]

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On This Day in 1009

by GarretDecember 6, 2009

1009 A.D. sits smack in the center of the Middle Ages. The Western Roman Empire has long since fallen and the Eastern Roman Empire is embroiled in the Arab wars. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem is completely destroyed by caliph Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, who hacks the Church’s foundations down to bedrock. In [...]

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The Torres and French Valley

by DeeanneDecember 4, 2009

We started the big Circuit in Torres del Paine with Wendi and Garret on a rather cold and bleak Patagonian day.  It is late Spring down here, but you’d think it was more like winter.  It snowed on us as we made our way to our hostel, Casa Cecilia.  We huddled under coats, caps and [...]

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