Rarely do we get asked, “so what was your favorite moment?” Everyone always wants to know about the best spot. In life though your location may influence the moment but it is the moments that count. I could list off all my favorite South American spots for you but you would have no idea why and should you happen to visit them you might ask yourself, “why did he like this spot?”
So here is a list of my favorite moments:
Disembarking on flight 673 in Quito, Ecuador. I had a huge grin hidden behind my face mask so as not to infect anyone with H1N1. It just felt good to be back in Ecuador after 10+ years and the shear lunacy of the scene made me want to laugh.
Resting on the side of Cotopaxi thinking what the hell am I doing here again. Visually there isn’t much to see since it is the middle of the night. I was left with thoughts like “Why?”, “Why me?”, “Why do I do this sh$%?” and so on.
Seeing Luz and Belen pull up in a taxi in Guayaquil, Ecuador. They were like family I hadn’t seen in 10 years. I look older, Belen looks older, Luz looks the same. We all smile, hug and laugh before piling back into the taxi.
Seeing the Galapagos Islands stretched out below from the plane window. Deeanne was giddy with excitement and I couldn’t wait to sail around the islands again, this time with her.
Sitting on the bow of our catamaran with my feet dangling over the water. The Galapagos spread out in front of me with the sun setting. It was the closest I think I will ever get to feeling what it is like to be a pelican in paradise.
Watching fog drift over Machu Picchu. There are quite a few people, but it still feels out of this world to look down on the city perched 1,500 feet above the Urubamba River and wonder what it must have looked like 100s of years ago.
Sitting on the Llama terraces in Choquequirao perched thousands of feet up. I felt like I could fly. Choquequirao sits on a spur in the Salkantay Mountain Range and I could almost reach out and touch Condors as they soared by. I could visualize myself flying as the wind pushed against me. There were no sounds other than the wind and no people to interrupt the moment. Had I lived here I would have worshiped the sun.
Running my hand along the Inca wall in Cusco just above the Plaza de Armas. There is this old wall that the Spanish built on top of, but the Inca stone remains as smooth and perfectly placed as ever. It felt cool to the touch and every time I walked this street I would run my hand along it.
Landing in Rurrenabaque, Bolivia on the Beni River in the Amazon. Off the plane’s wingtip we could see the Andes rising above us and then we dropped down into the Amazon Basin. The plane banked a big wide arcing turn and came down on the grass runway fast. I thought we would never stop in time. The plane just skated along merrily as my heart raced.
After dark in our jungle hut in Madidi National Park. I felt primal as the bugs thumped, whirred and sawed their way through the forest. Monkeys barked in the background. We woke up at 2:00am and tread as silently as possible through the jungle looking for jaguar with our guide Chaco Mano (Chocolate Hand).
Sitting half reclined in a Bolivian bus as we careened towards certain death on our way to the Salar de Uyuni. The driver drove it like he stole it (Lo conduzca como se lo robó). This was a full size bus driven down old sandy washboarded roads at breakneck speed. We had one pee break two hours into the 8 hour trip. The windows didn’t close and after two hours everyone had aged 30 years. I got a glimpse of what Deeanne will look like with grey hair.
Realizing what a small world it is as I sat in the back of a Landcruiser from Boston, MA as it sped across the Salar de Uyuni. It even still had all the neighborhood parking stickers on the back window. I sat in temperature controlled luxury on leather seats that once held carseats in a U.S. suburb of Boston – the irony wasn’t lost on me.
Walking with a total stranger in Santiago who insisted on personally showing us where our hostel was. I didn’t get more than 10% of what he said but his warmth and generosity felt great.
Pausing by the side of the road in the Chilean Lake District of Northern Patagonia to take in one of the most beautiful valleys I have ever seen. Waterfalls tumbled down into forests which gave way to pastures and farms so idyllic it felt story bookish. I expected to see Little Red Riding Hood step out from the closest farmhouse door.
The pleasure of popping fresh chocolate covered raspberries into my mouth in Bariloche. Deeanne surprised me with a bag of them and then we went back for two more bags. We would have packed them but they don’t keep.
Walking out on the pier to the Ushuaia. It was rainy and windy and felt like the proper start to an adventure. The small crane lifted supplies and luggage. There was an almost palpable crackle of anticipation in the air.
Sailing into Paradise Bay. The world turned upside down and we sat in a mirrored looking glass at the end of the world. I felt awe.
Sitting in the bridge on a barstool listening to Dvorak’s Symphony #7 while navigating the Lemaire Channel at sunset. It was stunning! I felt like a traveler in time witnessing a moment in a cosmic play that has gone on forever.
Filming Deeanne and Wendi being nearly blown over in Fitzroy. Rarely have I felt nature so raw. It adds an edge to your sense, sharpens things.
Climbing John Garner Pass in Torres del Paine. The Southern Ice Shield flowed into Grey Glacier at my back as I kicked in footholds up the ridge. I would pause and take it in waiting for Deeanne and Wendi to approach and then do it again. Snow brought utter silence and my eyes could not get enough.
Seeing my brothers in the airport in Mexico City. It felt good to see and be with family for Christmas.
New Years Eve dinner with Deeanne and James. It was incredibly relaxed and we had a great time sharing dinner and conversation for 4 hours. After midnight we stood outside on the street and watched the local residents light off fireworks.
Sitting and watching tango in San Telmo. There were old and young of all shapes and sizes. The band was busy stringing up lights and then the square was a blur of motion once they started playing.
Deeanne insisting I give the taxi directions in Cordoba.
Standing beneath Iguazu Falls while looking up. There is one platform that allows you to stand nearly beneath the falls. Looking up all you will see is water and hear the roar – the amount of energy is amazing. I walked away feeling cleansed with a huge grin on my face. I made Deeanne try it and then we spent almost an hour taking turns.
Sharing dinner with Glynn in his house on Bikini Beach in Uruguay. The pleasures of sharing a meal among friends, new or old, should not be underestimated. It is one of the greatest pleasures in life. I can’t imagine a better meal and Glynn makes the best chicken I’ve ever had.
Walking through the Duty Free section on our way to our departure gate. I don’t know what it is about Duty Free but it makes me smile. It is a sign that consumerism lives on and you’re about to change countries. The day Duty Free is gone will be the day the world ends.
Curbside LAX. The sights and sounds of home, the familiarly large cars, English, and American hospitality make me sigh.
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