We had a long wind-filled night at Campamento Agostini. After sleeping late and a leisurely breakfast, we started hiking north towards Poincenot and the base of Monte Fitz Roy. Rain spat on us as the wind hurled it in all directions, necessitating the use of our new rain gear which Wendi brought fresh from REI. With rain coats, pants, and pack covers in place, we began hiking. The trail was pleasant enough initially, and well sheltered in beech trees. As we neared Laguna de la Hija and Laguna de la Madre, the wind coming down from Glacier de los Tres became stronger, and hit us directly in the face.
Leaving Campamento Agostini
Laguna de la Madre
It is well-known that Patagonia has lots of wind and generally foul weather. In Enduring Patagonia, Gregory Crouch tries to explain why this type of weather perpetually plagues the area. In a chapter that is otherwise a bit dry (unless you are in fact in the middle of a Patagonian wind storm) he describes the predominant weather patterns that converge to create this vortex of foul weather.
The Wind Increases
Unlike the Northern Hemisphere, the Southern Hemisphere is almost entirely water. The only sizeable landmasses below 40 degrees south are Antarctica, slivers of Africa, Australia and New Zealand, and the long southern finger of South America – Patagonia. As air moves out of the subtopics it sinks towards the low pressure system that typically hangs out around Antarctica and the South Pole (storms generally gravitate towards the polar troughs to die). In the Northern Hemisphere the land masses of Eurasia and North America break storms up, but there are few such obstacles in the Southern Hemisphere. The abrupt southern Patagonian range serves as a ramp, amplifying the wind to a frenzy.
Here’s a clip of us walking near Laguna de la Hija:
We managed to make it to camp, but we did have to be careful on several of the log bridge crossings. It is not an exaggeration at all that the wind can knock you over, and the last thing we wanted was to be blown into a glacial creek. We set up camp, where Garret and I discovered that our wonderful little REI QuarterDome Tent had finally given us its last, and the zippered door would no longer close. Unfortunately, the strong wind created heavy dust that would have been bad enough just seeping through the mesh windows; however, given an entire door to climb in, it created dust piles everywhere inside the tent. I had to close my eyes when the wind gusted to avoid getting dust in them. As bad as this might sound, I assure you that it is NOTHING when compared to what my friend, Gregory Crouch, was enduring in Enduring Patagonia. My little dust encrusted sleeping bag was at least warm. He was dealing with glacial runoff down his entire body, filling even his boots, as he fought for his and his partner’s lives against the rain and wind on their 13th failed attempt of Cerro Torre.
As today was Thanksgiving, we invited our neighbors to a feast. They were also Americans, and we pilgrimaged across the river valley together to a three-sided cooking shelter at Rio Blanco with an actual picnic table. Garret, Wendi and I had instant pumpkin soup, pasta and Oreos; and our new friends had hot dogs and mashed potatoes. We even went around the table and said what we were thankful for (which included family, friends, food, and the ability to do what we were doing). The shelter made what would otherwise have been a very frustrating event of cooking in the wind and rain into a near party, and we happily went to bed afterwards, accompanied by only the sounds of the wind.
Morning Brought Clear Skies to the Fitz Roy Range
Much to our surprise, we awoke to a beautiful sunny day the following morning. We hiked up very early to Laguna de los Tres, and were greeted with a beautiful view of Monte Fitz Roy. We hung around the area for a couple of hours soaking in the good weather and views, and taking lots of pictures.
Enjoying the Views Under Fitz Roy
Reluctantly Leaving
After lunch, we hiked down the river bed to another lake and glacier, Laguna Piedra Blanca and Glacier Piedra Blanca. The hike there was pretty rocky, and my feet had had it with the boots, so I went in flip flops. The massive rocks we encountered were evidence that the glacier once reached much farther into the valley.
Happy Feet Without the Boots!
Holding Back Massive Glacial Rocks
Garret Finally got to Iceberg Surf
In the morning, we hiked out with quickening steps among another short wind and rain storm. The thoughts of La Wafleria stayed with us and urged us to hike faster! El Chalten lay before us before we knew it, and then we were off to our next adventure – 9 days in Torres del Paine on the Circuit.
Leaving Camp With a Parting Rainbow
El Chalten Welcomes Us Back
{ 2 comments }
