Most tourists come to Cuzco and stay for a few days, or only long enough to see the ruins and arrange their Machu Picchu tour. We’ve been in and out of Cuzco for nearly three weeks now, and I’ll be sad to say goodbye for the final time next week when we head to Lake Titicaca and Cochabamba. Cuzco has been known as the “Gringo Capital” of South America, and that’s not far off. But being in a tourist city has its advantages; namely food selection. Here in Cuzco we have not just one but two vegetarian restaurants that have a lunch menu (with soup, entrée and tea for less than $2.00). For dinner we have had Mexican food, crepes, and falafel among other more local food. Last night when we were at Granja Heidi, Garret thought he had just woken up in a fine New York City eatery, the food was so delicious.
Cuzco's Plaza de Armas after Dinner
Certain amenities can be hard to find though, and that’s why we’re now in our fourth hostel. After each trek, we have taken the opportunity to change lodging. The first time it was because the beds visibly bowed and the shared shower across the courtyard fluctuated between 50 and 200 degrees leaving you with only a few seconds of each minute to actually shower, and the rest of the time to stand out of the way and freeze in the cold air. The next time it was indirectly because of the shower too. When we complained that our electric shower didn’t work and they moved us into a room with a gas shower there was a bit of “miscommunication” in that we didn’t realize they were going to charge us more just to have a functioning shower! The third place was perfect; except it didn’t have any internet. So here we are in our fourth hostel, with both internet and a functioning shower (well, it works for at least 5 minutes). And I think we’ll come back after our trek to Ausangate this weekend. But we really can’t complain when the rooms are only $15 to $20 per night, always including breakfast. What passes for breakfast here really isn’t breakfast, just tea or coffee and a piece of bread. Generally we always have second breakfast out on the street somewhere.
One of the Many Hostel's We've Stayed at in Cuzco
The Plaza de Armas
Cuzco is an easy place to linger. It’s a large city, but the center is easily explored on foot. The streets are narrow and built of stone, and there are Iglesias all over the city center. The neighborhood that we like most is called San Blas, and is known for its artisans and “gringo appeal”. Much of the stonework that you see dates back to when Cuzco was the capital of the Incan empire, one street in particular is known for its beautiful old walls.
The Streets of San Blas are Charming
Original Inca Stone Wall
Local Girl Poses with her Alpaca in Town
Lots of locals dress in their best clothes and come into the city with their llamas, alpacas, and goats selling textiles and other souvenirs, as well as happily posing for pictures (for a small tip). Inca massages are also very popular; walk around the main square and you will get at least 15 offers for massages, manicures, and pedicures. We decided to try it out earlier this week, after our tough trek to Choquequirao, and enjoyed a 75 minute full body hot stone Inca massage with reflexology (for only $8 each, including tip!). The room we were in had a lovely ambiance, as well as aromatherapy, music and heat (quite a luxury). Despite being at over 11,000 feet I’ve only encountered heat this once; people just bundle up. Now you see why hot showers are so essential!
Women around the Plaza San Blas
Children Playing in a Doorway
It’s easily my favorite city so far. I’ll be sad to move on next week!
Cuzco City from Saqsaywaman
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