Garret and I were excited to visit Isla del Sol, Bolivia’s most famous island on Lake Titicaca. We had heard that it was laid-back, and altogether a different world from mainland Bolivia. We researched the boat schedules in advance, and found that we would have just enough time after arriving in Copacobana at noon to store our luggage, get a quick lunch, and make the 1:30 boat to the southern area of Isla del Sol. Fellow travelers—Wendy Mar Hotel is the perfect spot for your Copacobana stay—it has hot water, extremely clean rooms, and was quiet; all for $3-4 per person, and they stored our luggage in advance of our stay while we went to Isla del Sol.
Isla del Sol has Lovely Views of Lake Titicaca
The Famous Inca Staircase on Isla del Sol
We booked our passage to Isla del Sol for 10 Bolivianos each (about $1.50). We brought one backpack with our camping supplies and were looking forward to spending the evening on the shores of Isla del Sol. We reached the island, disembarked, and were immediately greeted by tax collectors and locals wanting to help arrange a home or hostel for us to stay overnight in. Since we were prepared to camp though, we just continued walking up the long Inca staircase until we reached the crest of the island. The main town of Yumani was cheery, and boasted about a 90% rate of pizzerias among restaurants. We had plans for gourmet Top Ramen though, but did pick up some fresh eggs to throw in.
One of the Many Pizzerias
One Main Trail Travels the Entire Spine of the Island
Fishing Boat on the Shores Where we Camped
We hadn’t quite left town when we were again greeted by the the island’s tourist tax collectors. He asked us if we had tickets. We assumed this meant our transit tickets, which we dutifully found and showed him. He explained that we must pay a fee of Yumani of 5 Bs. each, and showed us a receipt indicating an “extranjero” fee (foreigner fee). We said we were not staying in Yumani, in fact we were walking to the central part of the island to camp. He said we would have to pay the fee upon our return, which we agreed to, and kept walking. About five minutes later, we entered the island’s second neighborhood, and were again greeted by two friendly men who insisted we pay 5 Bs. each to continue. We agreed to pay, but insisted on a receipt. When he brought out the receipt, it read 10 Bs., and they said we would now have to pay 20 Bs. if we wanted a receipt. We said we would just buy one for 10 Bs., and they agreed bus said we would have to buy another when we returned. By this point we were frustrated! None of the tour agencies advise tourists of the islands fees, so we couldn’t be sure they were actually legal. I have no problem with paying entrance fees to areas when I know my fees are going to help with maintenance and general operating costs of the area; such as in the Galapagos Islands where I paid $100 USD to visit. But this idea of taxing foreigners as they walked into and out of each of the six different neighborhoods on Isla del Sol was downright infuriating! We had to migrate our way through 8 different tourist stops requiring fees on our walk across the island. If it was a legitimate fee, then it should be included in the ticket price of tourists visiting the islands. Pay once, in advance; and then you wouldn’t be bothered constantly on the island. But it really was out of control; and we were not the only perturbed tourists on Isla del Sol. On the way back, the following day, the entire boat of tourists refused to disembark for our one-hour stopover in Yumani because the town wanted to collect 5 Bs. again from each tourist. So we just sat, on the boat for the hour; refusing to buy refreshments or lunch. It wasn’t the amount of money (5 Bs. is only about $0.75), it was the principle.
Enjoying the Evening at our Campsite
Sunrise over Camp
It´s Sunny AND Cold; Better Wear a Visor With the Hat!
Other than the incessant impuestos, I loved Isla del Sol. It felt a little like I’ve always imagined the Greek Isles must be like. It was rugged, dry, warmer than mainland; and altogether beautiful. Add to this the fact that the island is the mythological birthplace of the Incan civilization, and you have a wonderful, exotic destination. I must say though that my memories of Isla del Sol will unfortunately be marred from the constant attempt to collect taxes from the foreigners and it is a shame because it was a beautiful island.
Some of the Oldest Inca Ruins are on Isla del Sol
Waiting for the Sheep to Pass By
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