(This is post #2 in a series of 5 about our recent trip to Antarctica.)
The guides keep telling us how lucky we are. Today was a perfect day in Antarctica; filled with penguins, ice bergs, and more penguins. In a place that represents all that is harsh and difficult to survive, we had an absolutely beautiful day. It started out last evening actually, when we were able to make a “bonus” landing because we had crossed the Drake Passage in extremely good time. I asked the captain how often the Drake is as calm as it was for us, and he said it had never been that calm for him, and he has been sailing since he was five years old. Nevermind that I don’t want to ever become acquainted with what the infamous Drake Passage is; I was very happy to have extraordinary weather! And it continued on through today. With little to no wind, we made two beautiful landings on islands off the Antarctic Peninsula, and were downright WARM! I discovered the secret to warm feet in rubber boots is to wear [in addition to three pairs of socks] insoles from my hiking and running shoes inside the boots as well.
Chinstrap Penguins Courting
These Guys Knew the #1 Real Estate Rule (Location, Location, Location)
Gentoo Penguins Hopped Nervously Out of the Water When a Leopard Seal Came Around
In our first landing at Hydrurga Rocks we saw large colonies of Chin-Strap Penguins, and several Waddell and Crabeater Seals. It was warm and sunny, and we spent a couple of hours just hanging out watching the birds. Right now is mating season, so they were busy courting one another (among other um… activities). After a delicious lunch, we went up to the Bridge to watch the navigation from the comfort of the captain’s heated quarters. The early afternoon found us navigating a very icy Gerlache Strait, with hundreds of “bergie bits” (small iceburgs). We had to proceed very slowly, and sort of “push” the ice out of the way, rather than crash into it (no need to remind my readers how well that worked for the Titanic). This made for a spectacular view, and I think it just might be Antarctica’s most scenic “drive”. We also managed to squeeze in some time to read, sleep, and drink tea and hot chocolate while the scenery unfolded in front of us.
A Large Tabular Iceberg, Probably "Born" Out of the Waddell Sea
Around 80% of an Iceburg´s Mass Lie Under the Water Surface
Icebergs Provide Natural Resting Spots for Penguins and Seals
Later this afternoon, we landed at Cuverville Island where we saw a very large colony of Gentoo penguins; about 5,000 pair in all. Some were swimming, and others were sunning themselves on the icy shore. We wandered among them, and were able to climb around a bit for some phenomenal views over the bay. As we were going back to the boat, we encountered a Leopard Seal patrolling the area, who wanted to hang out and play. Leopard Seals eat a diet of nearly 100% penguins, but tonight he was feeling pretty full, and not hunting; just swimming around.
Penguin Highway at Cuverville Island
Leopard Seal Swimming
Icebergs Can "Live" for Many Years
After dinner, we again went up to the Bridge to take in the sunset (which is just after 10 pm, but twilight lasts all night at this latitude). The scenery was just stunning, and it was hard to peel myself away to get some sleep. And so ended a most perfect day in Antarctica.
Watching the Day Fade From the Captain´s Bridge
Sunset and Dusk Stretched for Hour at the Southern Latitudes
(This is post #1 in a series of 5 about our recent trip to Antarctica.)
In the back of our heads we’ve had this tiny hope that we might possibly get to Antarctica ever since we left The States. Deeanne spent some time and put together a list of all the Antarctic tour operators and we emailed with a work exchange proposal during our Lakes Trip. Astoundingly, we had three operators write back within two days. One offered us the first cruise of the season, November 7-16, and that is how I now find myself sitting on a cruise ship surrounded by icebergs and penguin colonies.
Stunning Scenery from the Bow
On good faith we caught a flight down to Ushuaia two days before setting sail and worked out the details the day before leaving. Ushuaia in itself is a very cool town. It sits at the Southern tip of South America on the Beagle Channel at the base of a beautiful mountain range surrounded by national parks. The town has a frontier feel with people from every part of the world mingling on the streets and in the cafes before heading out on a cruise or research trip.
The Southernmost City of Ushuaia
On Saturday we made our way down to the harbor and there sat the Ushuaia waiting for us to board. The Ushuaia is a true expedition ship. It was original built for NOAA and used as a research vessel. In 1992 it was purchased by a tour company and recommissioned as a supply and tourist vessel for Antarctica. Although it no longer serves as a research or supply vessel it still feels very much like an expedition ship. Sixty eight other passengers boarded along with us and after introductions and safety drills we set sail.
Ready for Boarding
And We're Off
All the best things in life require a little sacrifice. For Antarctica it is the Drake Passage. It is a nightmare. The Drake is formed by Antarctica’s circumpolar current. The surface speed is not that great; however its depth and width make it the largest current in the world. It carries about 4,800 million cubic feet of water per second. That is equivalent to 135 times the flow of all the world’s rivers combined. Then you add in wind and the terrible recipe is complete. Sailors dubbed the southern latitudes the “Roaring Forties”, “Furious Fifties”, and “Screaming Sixties”. The wind and currents combined create the largest waves on the planet. This is all a good thing for the planet since it allows true water exchange for the entire global ocean system. For humans in a boat it’s a two day barf fest in which you wish you could hurl yourself into the sea and be done with it.
We were fortunate yet I managed to throw up three times, and I don’t normally get seasick. Deeanne cut her one last Scopolamine patch in half (one half for the way down one for the return). She felt ill but made it through without losing an entire days worth of meals. It takes a full two days and nights to cross the Drake. I’ve never been as excited as I was to see a continent as I was after two days of the Drake. I could have kissed the South Shetland Islands when I saw them – the water immediately got calmer.
The First Land is Spotted After Two Days and Two Nights in the Drake Passage
The pain was worth it within the first 10 minutes. We sat surrounded by icebergs serenely floating by. The Shetland Islands blanketed in snow were dotted with penguins. We had arrived in another world. Our crossing was so smooth and fast we had time enough to stop at one of the Aitcho Islands the evening of our arrival for a bonus landing.
Penguins Welcomed us to the South Shetland Islands
It was great to see the Galapagos again. They are truly amazing islands! The response I always got when I mentioned I had visited the islands previously was an incredulous “What?” It is the trip of a lifetime for most people and typically costs half a life savings, which is probably why one usually only does it once. Even had we not been able to work the amazing deal we did with Columbus Travel, Galapagos Cruises are at an all time low with the way the current economy is. It is fairly common to find 2×1 offers including airfaire from mainland Ecuador right now. If you ever considered visiting the Galapagos Islands now is the time.
Deeanne and I caught a cab to the Guayaquil airport on Tuesday where we were greated by the friendly staff at Haugan Cruises. From that point on we didn`t have to worry about a thing. Cruising Luxury Class is quite nice; I could get used to it. Deeanne loved the food, I just loved not having to worry about anything, particularly our safety. The Nina is the newest boat in the Galapagos Islands and is beautiful vessel. Our room was half the size of our Quito apartment.
After landing Tuesday on San Cristobal Island we were whisked to the boat with our fellow passengers and then on a brief tour up to the highlands to see some Giant Tortoises. Out of the 16 passenger 2 were from Italy and the rest from The States. It was a genuine pleasure getting to know everyone and not having to speak Spanish for a week. By the time we disembarked at the end of the week we had all exchanged emails and invitations to come visit if we were near each others homes. Antonio and Gabriela had us wanting to visit Italy the day we disembarked.
Wednesday and Thursday we spent exploring two islands I didn´t get a chance to visit last time – Española and Floreana. Española is the oldest island, estimated at 3 million years and home to near the entire world population of nesting Albatross. We arrived during mating season and had the chance to watch their courting dances. It was fascinating. Albatross are among the largest flying birds in the world and mate for life. We got the greatest kick out of watching them try to land and take-off. They are like B-52 Bombers. They have to go a cliff to take off and have runways for landings. We also saw Blue-footed Boobies, Lava Lizards, Marine Iguanas, Flamingos, the famous Galapagos finches, and numerous other birds. I´m not even a birder but I enjoyed the hikes. Floreana has an old pirate and whaling post office at Post Office Bay that is quite cool. We got to drop off mail and as the tradition goes pick up any mail that is near our hometown. You are supposed to hand deliver it although I´m thinking a stamp will do. All mail in Post Office Bay is unstamped as it was in old times.
From Floreana we headed up to Santa Cruz Island and Islas Plaza on Friday and then up to the smaller islands of North Seymour and Bartholomew on Saturday. By now I was used to our three to four daily excursions. The Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz has grown a ton in the last ten years since I visited. You can no longer get in the cage with George. Fortunately you can still get close to the other Giant Tortoises. The snorkels had been okay up to this point, but I was looking forward to snorkeling at Pinnacle Rock one of the most famous vistas and the first place you get to snorkel with penguins. Saturday we made it to Bartholomew Island home to Pinnacle Rock. This is one of my favorite spots in the Galapagos. At first I didn´t see any penguins and was a bit worried that too many tourists had scared them off; however, after spotting a white tipped reef shark, numerous fish, and some turtles the penguins finally showed up. Deeanne was excstatic and spent the rest of the time filming and chasing them. They are so fun and so so fast underwater.
Sunday we headed around to Isabela Island the most volcanically active and younget island (it last erupted in April of this year) and then over to Fernandina (also quite young). The Cromwell current upwells here and combined with the Humboldt current brings nutrient rich water to the surface making the sea life amazing. We had the best snorkeling here, were we sighted more Penguines, Flightless Cormorants, really playful Sea Lions, and over twenty Green Sea Turtles.
Monday we headed back around to the islands of Santiago and Rabida before making our way back down to Isla Lobos and San Cristobal to fly home on Tuesday. We saw the cool cactus eating Land Iguanas here, more Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Fur Sea Lions, Frigate birds, and Galapagos Hawks. We saw so much wildlife I can´t even begin to do it justice here, plus it would put you to sleep. We were sad to leave on Tuesday even after two days of rough seas and seasickness. Who know maybe I will go back a third time but not until I at least get in one African Safari.
After flying back to Guayaquil on Tuesday we spent a day and a half with Maximo, Luz, Belen, and Javier before heading to Peru on Thursday.
The Galapagos Islands were truly a vacation from our vacation! We had an absolutely unforgettable time aboard the Nina, I think she is quite possibly the best boat cruising the islands. Three lovely fresh meals a day—I think that might have been my favorite part of the cruise. I looked forward to meal times as [...]
