We’d had a tip from some of our South African friends who traveled here recently to do a quick trip to Uros, just to see how people manage to live on a floating island; but not to take the 5 hour roundtrip boatride to Taquile. We did just that, walking down to the port and buying our passage directly with a boat instead of through our hotel. We waited about 10 minutes until there were some other tourists on our boat, then took the short ride (25 minutes) to Uros.
Entrance to Floating Islands of Uros
Each Island is Home to Around Ten Families
Uros is a group of about 70 some islands, home to roughly 2000 people. On our first island stop, we had a demonstration of how a floating island is built. Basically, they harvest large chunks of interwoven reed roots, tie them together, and then place several feet of dry reeds on top, like thatch on a roof but much thicker. The dry reeds must be replaced frequently, and a new top layer is added every couple of weeks, with the older sinking down into the foundation or deteriorating.
Deeanne Poses by a Traditional Wedding Boat
We were warned to watch our steps on the islands; as sometimes there can be gaps and a misplaced foot can land you in the lake. A friend of mine had an unfortunate accident here when only 4 or 5 years old (stepping through the reeds into the lake), so we took extra care where we walked.
Reeds are Always Needed in Uros!
I think it might have been really great to live here during the Incan or Pre-Incan times; but I’m not so sure about now. There’s something about living a very traditional life of fishing, weaving, cooking, and island maintenance that is altogether difficult! Especially so when you can see the shores of Puno, just a couple of miles away where people live with modern conveniences like electricity, sewers, grocery stores and, of course, Internet. To me it flies in the face of common sense to continue living in such a difficult way; but then again, I’m not big on home maintenance. Since they have to rebuild their islands continually, their homes twice a year, and boats every couple of years it makes for continual work.
Fishing is the Primary Source of Food
The people were very friendly though, and I would recommend a trip to the islands if you are in the area.
The Ausangate Circuit was the backpacking trip I was most looking forward to in Peru, and it didn’t disappoint. After talking to the nice folks at South American Explorers in Cusco, and armed with a map and local information, we took a bus to the small town of Tinki last Thursday. The town was very basic, and we stayed in a small hospedaje in order to get an early start on Friday. The weather around Ausangate is predictably bad after 1 pm, so we wanted to get most of the hiking in early. The plan was a five day counter-clockwise hike around Ausangate, with an unbelievable four passes over 16,000 ft, lots of views of glaciers, and mostly llamas and alpaca for company.
Cool High Altitude Cactus Grows Around Ausangate
Hiking Toward Upis Day One
Near the First Campsite at Upis
Ausangate is a very rugged area, with very high altitudes. Most people that do the trek do so with the help of guides and horses, and it is also very popular to horseback ride much of the trail. Garret and I wanted to do it independently though; and it is very possible for experienced backpackers; though route-finding was a constant challenge due to the number of llama paths that appear as the main path, and a basic amount of Spanish is certainly needed for those wanting to do the trip without guides. We felt a little bit guilty about not hiring local horseman (arrieros), but did our best to help the local economy by buying lots of genuine alpaca wool products whenever we were offered (which was frequently) by the woman who lived in the areas. Hat count is now five—Garret has three, and I have two (along with two scarves, and a few bracelets). Everywhere the women walk, they are always spinning alpaca wool, and it takes between 25 and 50 hours (depending on the intricacy of the pattern) to make a scarf that sells for about $6 dollars (this doesn’t include the time it takes to spin the wool into thread, just the time to weave the thread).
Horses Carry Most Supplies at Ausangage
The Shopping Begins; Garret Buys a Completely Authentic Alpaca Wool Scarf
The first day took us from Tinki to Upis, home of the first of two natural hot springs the trail passes by. We were hoping for them to be a little bit warmer; so we ended up only soaking our feet. Along the way we walked through valleys and crossed many rivers, our only company that of the alpacas and llamas. It started to rain about 1:00 pm, so we hunkered in our tent for the afternoon. It let up about four hours later, and we were able to have a nice dinner of ramen and spaghetti before climbing back in the tent for a long cold night. I had read that one should be prepared for long (13 hour) nights huddled in a tent; but my recommendation is that one be ready to spend the better part of 16 hours a day in the tent due to the afternoon weather. At least we had picked up a great travel book about the Kiribati Islands (The Sex Lives of Cannibals) to keep us entertained.
Deeanne Wakes up to a Frosty Morning
Soaking our Feet at the Hot Springs in Upis
The next day we went over Arapa Pass, and stayed just before Apacheta pass at a beautiful glacial lake. We had a bit of hail this night, and though we arrived in plenty of time to enjoy the lake all afternoon; the altitude was getting to us so we just laid around camp soaking in the views. We started dreaming of life at sea level, and what it would feel like to just be drowning in oxygen! Nothing other than a slight head-ache bothered us though, other than when you stand up or walk too fast you felt immediately tired; very tired!
Alpaca near Arapa Pass
Camp Night Two; Un-named Lake Near Laguna Ausangate Cocha
Our third day took us over Apacheta Pass and Paloomani Pass, where we were staring right at the summit of Ausangate. Beautiful views changed to clouds and snow as we camped above Jampa, and endured the coldest night. At least we had ramen to keep our tummies warm!
Face to Face with Ausangate
Looking Back at Ausangate
Did I Mention How Many Llamas and Alpaca There Were?
Camp Above Jampa; Very Cold!
The fourth day we covered a lot of ground, walking from Jampa over Campa Pass; where there were many cairns and alters. Quechua tradition is to build alters at high places with three coca leaves under the alter to represent the snake, lion and condor which they consider to be sacred animals representative of the past, present and future lives. After going over the pass, we began to see many more villagers and bought some more wool products on our way to Pacchanta, our last camp and the site of some lovely hot springs. I can’t tell you how nice (and needed) the hot springs were after five days of hiking. Those of you who know me know that when Garret and I hiked the John Muir Trail several years ago I prided myself on “showering” daily in a river or lake, and washing my clothes to stave off “trail smell”. I can tell you that there is no washing of bodies or clothes along the Ausangate Trail due to the extreme cold, and the fact that nothing would dry for days! So the hot springs were a very needed and lovely experience. I can also tell you that managing to only bring one pair of socks for six days is a very smelly experience, one that I don’t recommend! Unfortunately my spare pair of socks were forgotten on the bus along with all of our fresh fruit which was a cause for great weeping and gnashing of teeth (but at least we didn’t forget something really irreplaceable like ummm passports).
New Hats
Lovely Hot Springs in Pacchanta
Our final day was an easy hike on a dirt road from Pacchanta to Tinki, where we caught a series of four taxis/cars back to Cusco, as the busses weren’t following a regular schedule due to a local holiday. We spent the afternoon doing laundry, catching up on email, and eating delicious Italian food. We’re now heading to the Lake Titicaca area (world’s highest navigable lake) and intending to explore floating islands and make our way to La Paz, Bolivia (the world’s highest capital city) by early next week.
Most tourists come to Cuzco and stay for a few days, or only long enough to see the ruins and arrange their Machu Picchu tour. We’ve been in and out of Cuzco for nearly three weeks now, and I’ll be sad to say goodbye for the final time next week when we head to Lake Titicaca and Cochabamba. Cuzco has been known as the “Gringo Capital” of South America, and that’s not far off. But being in a tourist city has its advantages; namely food selection. Here in Cuzco we have not just one but two vegetarian restaurants that have a lunch menu (with soup, entrée and tea for less than $2.00). For dinner we have had Mexican food, crepes, and falafel among other more local food. Last night when we were at Granja Heidi, Garret thought he had just woken up in a fine New York City eatery, the food was so delicious.
Cuzco's Plaza de Armas after Dinner
Certain amenities can be hard to find though, and that’s why we’re now in our fourth hostel. After each trek, we have taken the opportunity to change lodging. The first time it was because the beds visibly bowed and the shared shower across the courtyard fluctuated between 50 and 200 degrees leaving you with only a few seconds of each minute to actually shower, and the rest of the time to stand out of the way and freeze in the cold air. The next time it was indirectly because of the shower too. When we complained that our electric shower didn’t work and they moved us into a room with a gas shower there was a bit of “miscommunication” in that we didn’t realize they were going to charge us more just to have a functioning shower! The third place was perfect; except it didn’t have any internet. So here we are in our fourth hostel, with both internet and a functioning shower (well, it works for at least 5 minutes). And I think we’ll come back after our trek to Ausangate this weekend. But we really can’t complain when the rooms are only $15 to $20 per night, always including breakfast. What passes for breakfast here really isn’t breakfast, just tea or coffee and a piece of bread. Generally we always have second breakfast out on the street somewhere.
One of the Many Hostel's We've Stayed at in Cuzco
The Plaza de Armas
Cuzco is an easy place to linger. It’s a large city, but the center is easily explored on foot. The streets are narrow and built of stone, and there are Iglesias all over the city center. The neighborhood that we like most is called San Blas, and is known for its artisans and “gringo appeal”. Much of the stonework that you see dates back to when Cuzco was the capital of the Incan empire, one street in particular is known for its beautiful old walls.
The Streets of San Blas are Charming
Original Inca Stone Wall
Local Girl Poses with her Alpaca in Town
Lots of locals dress in their best clothes and come into the city with their llamas, alpacas, and goats selling textiles and other souvenirs, as well as happily posing for pictures (for a small tip). Inca massages are also very popular; walk around the main square and you will get at least 15 offers for massages, manicures, and pedicures. We decided to try it out earlier this week, after our tough trek to Choquequirao, and enjoyed a 75 minute full body hot stone Inca massage with reflexology (for only $8 each, including tip!). The room we were in had a lovely ambiance, as well as aromatherapy, music and heat (quite a luxury). Despite being at over 11,000 feet I’ve only encountered heat this once; people just bundle up. Now you see why hot showers are so essential!
Women around the Plaza San Blas
Children Playing in a Doorway
It’s easily my favorite city so far. I’ll be sad to move on next week!
I’m embarrassed by the fact that history was my worst subject in school. I wish I had known more about South American history before traveling here; but I’m certainly learning more now. Much of what we learn visiting the ruins are theories, because the Incas left no written records of their society. But they did [...]
Deeanne and I had long debated hiking Choquequirao with or without a guide. There is quite a bit of discussion out there on how hard this hike is and the necessity of mules and a guide. The hike is best done in four days – two out and two back. The elevation profile is helatious; [...]
If you’ve been to our house, you know that we have a World Map with pins all over it marking places we’ve been and places we want to go. I’m not sure which had the pin first, Machu Picchu or Patagonia, but both have been long standing members on my life-list of places to visit [...]
The company that Garret and I booked our Inca Trail with, Wayki Trek, prides themselves on the fact that they are under indigenous management, and that they treat the local Quechua porters, cooks and guides well. To convince foreign tourists of this, they encourage trekkers to spend an afternoon and night in the village before [...]
