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Sea Lions

Galapagos Revisited

by Garret on August 21, 2009

It was great to see the Galapagos again. They are truly amazing islands! The response I always got when I mentioned I had visited the islands previously was an incredulous “What?” It is the trip of a lifetime for most people and typically costs half a life savings, which is probably why one usually only does it once. Even had we not been able to work the amazing deal we did with Columbus Travel, Galapagos Cruises are at an all time low with the way the current economy is. It is fairly common to find 2×1 offers including airfaire from mainland Ecuador right now. If you ever considered visiting the Galapagos Islands now is the time.

Deeanne and I caught a cab to the Guayaquil airport on Tuesday where we were greated by the friendly staff at Haugan Cruises. From that point on we didn`t have to worry about a thing. Cruising Luxury Class is quite nice; I could get used to it. Deeanne loved the food, I just loved not having to worry about anything, particularly our safety. The Nina is the newest boat in the Galapagos Islands and is beautiful vessel. Our room was half the size of our Quito apartment.

After landing Tuesday on San Cristobal Island we were whisked to the boat with our fellow passengers and then on a brief tour up to the highlands to see some Giant Tortoises. Out of the 16 passenger 2 were from Italy and the rest from The States. It was a genuine pleasure getting to know everyone and not having to speak Spanish for a week. By the time we disembarked at the end of the week we had all exchanged emails and invitations to come visit if we were near each others homes. Antonio and Gabriela had us wanting to visit Italy the day we disembarked.

Wednesday and Thursday we spent exploring two islands I didn´t get a chance to visit last time – Española and Floreana. Española is the oldest island, estimated at 3 million years and home to near the entire world population of nesting Albatross. We arrived during mating season and had the chance to watch their courting dances. It was fascinating. Albatross are among the largest flying birds in the world and mate for life. We got the greatest kick out of watching them try to land and take-off. They are like B-52 Bombers. They have to go a cliff to take off and have runways for landings. We also saw Blue-footed Boobies, Lava Lizards, Marine Iguanas, Flamingos, the famous Galapagos finches, and numerous other birds. I´m not even a birder but I enjoyed the hikes. Floreana has an old pirate and whaling post office at Post Office Bay that is quite cool. We got to drop off mail and as the tradition goes pick up any mail that is near our hometown. You are supposed to hand deliver it although I´m thinking a stamp will do. All mail in Post Office Bay is unstamped as it was in old times.

From Floreana we headed up to Santa Cruz Island and Islas Plaza on Friday and then up to the smaller islands of North Seymour and Bartholomew on Saturday. By now I was used to our three to four daily excursions. The Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz has grown a ton in the last ten years since I visited. You can no longer get in the cage with George. Fortunately you can still get close to the other Giant Tortoises. The snorkels had been okay up to this point, but I was looking forward to snorkeling at Pinnacle Rock one of the most famous vistas and the first place you get to snorkel with penguins. Saturday we made it to Bartholomew Island home to Pinnacle Rock. This is one of my favorite spots in the Galapagos. At first I didn´t see any penguins and was a bit worried that too many tourists had scared them off; however, after spotting a white tipped reef shark, numerous fish, and some turtles the penguins finally showed up. Deeanne was excstatic and spent the rest of the time filming and chasing them. They are so fun and so so fast underwater.

Sunday we headed around to Isabela Island the most volcanically active and younget island (it last erupted in April of this year) and then over to Fernandina (also quite young). The Cromwell current upwells here and combined with the Humboldt current brings nutrient rich water to the surface making the sea life amazing. We had the best snorkeling here, were we sighted more Penguines, Flightless Cormorants, really playful Sea Lions, and over twenty Green Sea Turtles.

Monday we headed back around to the islands of Santiago and Rabida before making our way back down to Isla Lobos and San Cristobal to fly home on Tuesday. We saw the cool cactus eating Land Iguanas here, more Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Fur Sea Lions, Frigate birds, and Galapagos Hawks. We saw so much wildlife I can´t even begin to do it justice here, plus it would put you to sleep. We were sad to leave on Tuesday even after two days of rough seas and seasickness. Who know maybe I will go back a third time but not until I at least get in one African Safari.

After flying back to Guayaquil on Tuesday we spent a day and a half with Maximo, Luz, Belen, and Javier before heading to Peru on Thursday.

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A Vacation from our Vacation

by Deeanne on August 21, 2009

The Galapagos Islands were truly a vacation from our vacation!  We had an absolutely unforgettable time aboard the Nina, I think she is quite possibly the best boat cruising the islands.  Three lovely fresh meals a day—I think that might have been my favorite part of the cruise.  I looked forward to meal times as much as the island visits!
Three Glorious Buffets a Day
Three Glorious Buffets a Day

 The food was without a doubt the best food we’ve had since leaving The States, and was consistently delicious.  The cook was amazing, and always made special vegetarian options for us.  He even learned how to make me egg-white omelets, and every morning would make me one to order.  There were several platters of freshly cut fruits and vegetables at every meal, along with soup, a main course, and dessert.  I’m sure I gained a couple of pounds from all the food; but it was certainly worth it!!  Now I’m back to basics—papaya and milk for breakfast, rice and soup for other meals.

We had a large cabin on the upper deck with private bathroom and balcony, and the crew cleaned it three times a day.  Each day that we returned from our first island visit we would come back to a fresh room, and new towels arranged as turtles, sun-bathers, or sea lions.  The crew was amazing, and we felt completely pampered all the time. 

Sunbathers Masquerading as Towels

Sunbathers Masquerading as Towels

Warming up in the Jacuzzi after Jumping from the Top

Warming up in the Jacuzzi after Jumping from the Top

The bridge was always open, and I enjoyed talking to the captain and other crew while we navigated.  After a few days onboard, it felt as though we’d been there forever; but by the week’s end it seemed we had just embarked. 

A Favorite Spot of ours During Navigations

A Favorite Spot of ours During Navigations

Hanging out in the Bridge with the Captain

Hanging out in the Bridge with the Captain

 Every day passed something like this:

6:00 Wake Up Music and Announcements
6:30 First Island Visit
8:30 Breakfast
11:00 Snorkeling
1:00 Lunch
3:30 Second Island Visit
5:30 Snack
6:30 Briefing for Next Day’s Activities
7:00 Dinner

It’s definitely not a cruise for those who just want to lounge around; and at times some passengers were known to grumble about the early wake-up calls. 

Siestas Were Needed Because of Very Early Starts!

Siestas Were Needed Because of Very Early Starts!

But the bird life is better earlier in the morning, and most days there was time for siestas.  The highlights for me were the animal life both on the islands and under the sea, and a chance to really relax.  It was so refreshing not to have to guard our belongings or worry about being robbed! It was the mental break that I really needed, but now it’s going to be hard to return back to merely “traveling” and not “vacationing”.  We felt truly homesick at the end, as all of our new friends we met onboard were heading home, mostly the USA. 

http://akersons.smugmug.com/Backpacking-and-Other-Epic/The-Galapagos-Islands/9361872_uuUyV/1/627072772_qjNqR

The Nina Passengers

The wildlife on the islands was great.  The penguins were my favorite for sure, closely followed by seas lions, iguanas and birds.  It was so much fun to snorkel with penguins; they were really fast in the water.  Sea lions were definitely not in short supply; but it was really neat to snorkel with them.  They are quite playful, and love to blow bubbles in your mask and play.  All the animals are really unique in that they have no innate fear of humans, so it is possible to be extremely close to them.  Many of the sea birds were courting including the albatross, blue-footed boobies and red-chested cormorants.  Most of the sea birds are “seasonally monogamous”, but the albatross mate for life (which must be why they choose so carefully!).  Each island had different wildlife for us to see, but here’s my top ten list from all of the sites we visited.

Deeanne’s Top 10 Wildlife Encounters

10. Watching really old land tortoises eat

This is Super Diego, a Transplant from the San Diego Zoo

This is Super Diego, a Transplant from the San Diego Zoo

They Get Fiesty About Food Too!

They Get Fiesty About Food Too!

9. Countless sea turtles while snorkeling

Countless Sea Turtles Accompany us in The Galapagos

Countless Sea Turtles Accompany us in The Galapagos (photo: Gabriel)

8. Piles of marine iguanas ( known as “iggie piles” by our guide)

Deeanne Checks out an Iggy Pile

Deeanne Posing by an Iggie Pile

7. Listening to the blue-footed boobies

Blue Footed Boobies Court

Blue Footed Boobies Court

6. Seeing the red-chested cormorants

The Cormorants are Known as Pirate Birds

The Cormorants are Known as Pirate Birds

5. Watching the albatross court and fly (they have a wing span over seven feet)

Galapagos Wave Albatross Courting

Galapagos Wave Albatross Courting

4. Seeing an octopus change colors (check back for video link here soon)
3. Following a giant manta ray

A Diver Approaches the Giant Manta

A Diver Approaches the Giant Manta

2. Playing with sea lions while snorkeling

 

Sea Lions LOVE to Play While Snorkeling

Sea Lions LOVE to Play With Snorkelers

1. Snorkeling with penguins

Galapagos Penguins

Galapagos Penguins

 

They Swim Fast!

They Swim Fast!

It was a fabulous week, and I would have stayed longer, except that I started to get seasick the last day.  We had a couple of nights of navigating nearly all night, and I didn’t sleep well when the boat was traveling; so I was very tired when we got back to San Cristobal Island and it was time to fly home.  It was a lovely week, I am so thankful for the trip; but I am also thankful to be back on tierra firma!  Unfortunately for my poor equilibrium, we had a 27 hour bus ride after arriving in back in Guayaquil to Lima; so I feel as though I’ve been motion sick for the better part of this week.  I’ll be glad to feel “normal” again.  We have many many more pictures from Galapagos, feel free to enjoy them at our gallery.

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