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Ushuaia

Trekking in Tierra del Fuego

by Deeanne on December 15, 2009

After arriving back in Ushuaia, we had a fairly “typical” week.  Garret and I worked in the office for two days, and after such back-breaking work as sitting at a desk for two days for nearly 7 hours each day, we had to have a weekend get-away!  Where else to go but to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, a mear 10 miles West of Ushuaia.
We left work Friday afternoon and went to the grocery store.  Since we weren’t going to be walking too far, we bought fresh pasta (everywhere in Argentina) and ravioli, sauce, fruits and vegetables, bread, and cereal for our food.  We took a taxi Saturday morning to the park, which set us back only 28 AR to the entrance gate (travelers take note—the bus company charges 40 AR each person for a one-way ticket; the taxi is by far the better alternative).
Since the weather was nice, we sat and read, instead of hiking.  There were horses grazing nearby, and a gurgling creek for company.  Since the park is so accessible, many families were out together grilling over the parillas and playing pick-up futbol games.  It reminded me of Mission Bay in San Diego; where the seemingly endless waterways intrude upon the land and hide exceptional picnic areas and places to get lost.  After a few hours of reading, we began the hike to Ensenada Camp along the Pampa Alta trail.
The hike was through beech forest, and also a bit of bog.  We were also able to see Beaver dams, as this introduced species has unfortunately been quite industrious since their unfortunate introduction some 50 years ago.  The problem is there are no natural predators of beavers in Tierra del Fuego; so they, along with the North American rabbit, have really proliferated in the area.  There are plans to eradicate the beaver from the island completely, but until then, they are somewhat of a tourist attraction.  Who knew a rodent could be so cute?
The next day, we hiked the Ensenada trail along the coast of the Beagle Channel for about 7 miles, breathing in the delicious salty air that the coast brings.  It felt a little funny that we were on the ocean, because there are still snow-clad mountains behind the water.  These are close islands that belong to Chilean Tierra del Fuego actually.
As far as backpacking goes, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego is pretty poor.  None of the trails is very long, and they are all very easily hiked in a couple of hours.  However, the campgrounds inside are all free (except the one at Lago Roco), and it made for leisurely hiking and lots of time for reading and relaxing in the sunshine.  Come to think of it, I think maybe the best part about the park is that there isn’t that much to do, so sitting and enjoying the scenery becomes a priority.
When it was time to come back to work for the week in Ushuaia, a nice German lady gave us a ride in her camper.

After arriving back in Ushuaia, we had a fairly “typical” week.  Garret and I worked in the office for two days, and after such back-breaking work as sitting at a desk for two days for nearly 7 hours each day, we had to have a weekend get-away!  Where else to go but to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, a mear 10 miles West of Ushuaia.

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

Horses Graze the Day Away in the Park

Horses Graze the Day Away in the Park

We left work Friday afternoon and went to the grocery store.  Since we weren’t going to be walking too far, we bought fresh pasta (readily available everywhere in Argentina) and ravioli, sauce, fruits and vegetables, bread, and cereal for our food.  We took a taxi Saturday morning to the park, which set us back only 28 AR to the entrance gate (travelers take note—the bus company charges 40 AR each person for a one-way ticket; the taxi is by far the better alternative).

More Horses near Bahia Ensenada

More Horses near Bahia Ensenada

Young Foal and Mare

Young Foal and Mare

While the weather was nice, we sat and read, instead of hiking.  There were horses grazing nearby, and a gurgling creek for company.  Since the park is so accessible, many families were out together grilling over the parillas and playing pick-up futbol games.  It reminded me of Mission Bay in San Diego; where the seemingly endless waterways intrude upon the land and hide exceptional picnic areas and places to get lost.  After a few hours of reading, we began the hike to Ensenada Camp along the Pampa Alta trail.

Reading in the Sunshiny Day

Reading in the Sunshiny Day

Gurgling Brook

Gurgling Brook

The hike was through beech forest, and also a bit of bog.  We were also able to see Beaver dams, as this introduced species has regrettably been quite industrious since their unfortunate introduction some 50 years ago.  The problem is there are no natural predators of beavers in Tierra del Fuego; so they, along with the North American rabbit, have really proliferated in the area.  There are plans to eradicate the beaver from the island completely, but until then, they are somewhat of a tourist attraction.  Who knew that a cute rodent could be so troublesome?

Hiking the Pampa Alta Trail

Hiking the Pampa Alta Trail

Lots of Water and Moisture are Common in Tierra del Fuego

Lots of Water and Moisture are Common in Tierra del Fuego

An Abandoned Dam Made by Introduced Beavers

An Abandoned Dam Made by Introduced Beavers

The next day, we hiked the Ensenada trail along the coast of the Beagle Channel for about 7 miles, breathing in the delicious salty air that the coast brings.  It felt a little funny that we were on the ocean, because there are still snow-clad mountains behind the water.  These are close islands that belong to Chilean Tierra del Fuego actually.

The Ocean, with Chilean Islands in the Background

The Ocean, with Chilean Islands in the Background

Looks Like a Lake, but Smells Like the Ocean

Looks Like a Lake, but Smells Like the Ocean

Dawdling on the Trail

Dawdling on the Trail

As far as backpacking goes, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego is pretty poor.  None of the trails is very long, and they are all very easily hiked in a couple of hours.  However, the campgrounds inside are all free (except the one at Lago Roco), and it made for leisurely hiking and lots of time for reading and relaxing in the sunshine.  Come to think of it, I think maybe the best part about the park is that there isn’t that much to do, so sitting and enjoying the scenery becomes a priority.

Bog in the Park (at least we didnt have to walk through it!)

Bog in the Park (at least we didn't have to walk through it!)

Camp, Night #2

Camp, Night #2

Is it Sunset Yet, We Ask After 10 pm

Is it Sunset Yet, We Ask After 10 pm

When it was time to come back to work for the week in Ushuaia, a nice German lady gave us a ride in her camper back to Ushuaia.

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Getting to Antarctica

by Garret on November 9, 2009

(This is post #1 in a series of 5 about our recent trip to Antarctica.)

In the back of our heads we’ve had this tiny hope that we might possibly get to Antarctica ever since we left The States. Deeanne spent some time and put together a list of all the Antarctic tour operators and we emailed with a work exchange proposal during our Lakes Trip. Astoundingly, we had three operators write back within two days. One offered us the first cruise of the season, November 7-16, and that is how I now find myself sitting on a cruise ship surrounded by icebergs and penguin colonies.

Stunning Scenery

Stunning Scenery from the Bow

On good faith we caught a flight down to Ushuaia two days before setting sail and worked out the details the day before leaving. Ushuaia in itself is a very cool town. It sits at the Southern tip of South America on the Beagle Channel at the base of a beautiful mountain range surrounded by national parks. The town has a frontier feel with people from every part of the world mingling on the streets and in the cafes before heading out on a cruise or research trip.

The Southernmost City of Ushuaia

The Southernmost City of Ushuaia

On Saturday we made our way down to the harbor and there sat the Ushuaia waiting for us to board. The Ushuaia is a true expedition ship. It was original built for NOAA and used as a research vessel. In 1992 it was purchased by a tour company and recommissioned as a supply and tourist vessel for Antarctica. Although it no longer serves as a research or supply vessel it still feels very much like an expedition ship. Sixty eight other passengers boarded along with us and after introductions and safety drills we set sail.

Ready for Boarding

Ready for Boarding

And Were Off

And We're Off

All the best things in life require a little sacrifice. For Antarctica it is the Drake Passage. It is a nightmare. The Drake is formed by Antarctica’s circumpolar current. The surface speed is not that great; however its depth and width make it the largest current in the world. It carries about 4,800 million cubic feet of water per second. That is equivalent to 135 times the flow of all the world’s rivers combined. Then you add in wind and the terrible recipe is complete. Sailors dubbed the southern latitudes the “Roaring Forties”, “Furious Fifties”, and “Screaming Sixties”. The wind and currents combined create the largest waves on the planet. This is all a good thing for the planet since it allows true water exchange for the entire global ocean system. For humans in a boat it’s a two day barf fest in which you wish you could hurl yourself into the sea and be done with it.

We were fortunate yet I managed to throw up three times, and I don’t normally get seasick. Deeanne cut her one last Scopolamine patch in half (one half for the way down one for the return).  She felt ill but made it through without losing an entire days worth of meals. It takes a full two days and nights to cross the Drake. I’ve never been as excited as I was to see a continent as I was after two days of the Drake. I could have kissed the South Shetland Islands when I saw them – the water immediately got calmer.

The First Land is Spotted After Two Days and Two Nights in the Drake Passage

The First Land is Spotted After Two Days and Two Nights in the Drake Passage

The pain was worth it within the first 10 minutes. We sat surrounded by icebergs serenely floating by. The Shetland Islands blanketed in snow were dotted with penguins. We had arrived in another world. Our crossing was so smooth and fast we had time enough to stop at one of the Aitcho Islands the evening of our arrival for a bonus landing.

Penguins Welcomed us to the South Shetland Islands

Penguins Welcomed us to the South Shetland Islands

Meeting Our First Penguins at Aitcho Island

Meeting Our First Penguins at Aitcho Island

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